Skin Biohacking 101: What It Is and Why Your Skin Needs It Now
|
|
|
Time to read 18 min
|
|
|
Time to read 18 min
Even if you’ve never asked yourself “what is biohacking?”, chances are you’ve already heard about it. Fasting or intermittent fasting, blood glucose implants, sleep tracking, even the headline‑grabbing stories about injecting edited DNA – all of this belongs to a new 21st‑century socio‑medical phenomenon called biohacking.
Biohacking started almost like a hobby club, bringing together people who wanted to understand how the human body works and try to control its biological mechanisms themselves. The goal? Eternal youth, of course – or at least a very long youth. Biohackers believe that a human being can live to 180 and beyond and, most importantly, they insist that old age is not an obligatory part of life. One of the “apostles” of biohacking, Aubrey de Grey, even claims that the first person who will live for 1,000 years has already been born and that aging is a failure of our biological program that can, in theory, be turned off.
Within the biohacking community you’ll find people with advanced scientific degrees alongside self‑taught enthusiasts ready to experiment on their own bodies. Numerous foundations now fund active longevity research; Silicon Valley is especially well known for its many biohacking supporters inside the tech industry. The term “hacking” comes from programming: biohackers hope to “hack” the biological mechanisms responsible for human aging and build something new – more reliable, more stable and longer‑lived. In this worldview, biohacking corrects nature’s “engineering errors” that left the body fragile and unreliable. Hence the popular description of biohacking as Do‑It‑Yourself Biology – a hands‑on approach to your own biology.
Interestingly, although biohackers actively look for pharmacological agents that might prolong life and slow aging, many professionals with solid biomedical training believe drugs are not the core of biohacking. The foundation is awareness – a deep understanding of how not just the human body in general works, but how your individual body functions, with all its unique features. Ideologically, this is where biohacking diverges from traditional medicine: it begins with accepting individuality, not the “average patient”. Biohackers seek new opportunities in self‑regulation – the ability to restore and control aging mechanisms from the inside, using the body’s own hidden reserves.
One of the cornerstones of biohacking is meditation, whose importance is recognised by virtually all serious researchers in the field. Meditation and mindfulness practices help increase concentration, reduce stress levels and, according to biohackers, support the restoration of hormonal balance – particularly the balance of cortisol, catecholamines and steroid hormones. Sleep, as another essential tool for a long and active life, is also studied very actively. Meditative practices can help restore healthy sleep quality, which in turn supports the synchronisation of biological rhythms in organs, tissues and cells, making the body function more efficiently and improving regeneration processes that inevitably slow with age.
Physical activity is another important biohacking tool. Biohackers do not lie on the sofa contemplating the fate of humanity; they train actively, using the most modern methods of feedback from the body. The aim is to choose exactly the type and level of physical activity that benefits the body, does not deplete its resources, does not cause damage and instead helps to keep health at its peak. Individual training programs are therefore focused not on appearance, but on endurance, cardiovascular health and endocrine balance. We have known for a long time that physical activity can increase the synthesis of endorphins, keep insulin levels within a normal range, and raise testosterone levels. Biohackers, however, go further and try to understand in detail which type of activity, at what time of day and under which conditions is most useful and effective.
Nutrition is perhaps one of the most discussed topics in biohacking. Here the word “diet” means not “what to eat to lose weight” but the creation of new, sustainable eating habits that prioritise food helping us stay young for as long as possible. The Hippocratic idea “food is medicine” has taken on new life, and recent research confirms that food is not just a mix of calories, proteins, fats, carbohydrates and trace elements. It is a complex constructor of hundreds of thousands of substances that can affect not only the digestive system but the entire body.
This is a huge field for research and experimentation, including the study of traditional cuisines and their links to national health differences. One striking example comes from an international study that compared epidemiological data on acne prevalence and severity across different countries. It turned out that the highest rates and most severe forms of acne were seen in countries where a Western‑style diet is common among young people – with high daily consumption of meat, cow’s milk and dairy products, and refined sugar. In countries where traditional diets do not include these foods every day, acne is much less common and tends to be milder.
Researchers also noticed that when the financial status of poorer populations improved and Western‑style eating patterns spread, acne rates increased among more affluent adolescents, while remaining low in poorer families that continued to eat in a traditional way. Analysis of these diets suggested several mechanisms: changes in insulin regulation due to higher sugar and glucose loads, and a high intake of leucine – an amino acid shown to influence sebocytes and keratinocytes, stimulating keratinisation and sebum production. At the same time, this style of eating can disrupt gut microbiome balance, which in turn affects the skin microbiome and promotes inflammatory processes. Similar studies are being carried out in many other medical fields.
Biohacking is also attempting to formulate “longevity diet” rules, and there is already some progress. Biohackers look at nutrition not only in terms of what you eat or avoid, but also how and when you eat – this is where fasting and intermittent fasting come in. Beyond food, biohacking looks for keys to youth in light: studying how light affects the body, and how light intensity, characteristics and changes can be used to support longevity. Light exposure on the retina is crucial for physiological synchronisation: if you do not see bright daylight in the morning, it will be harder to fall asleep at night. Sleeping in a lit space reduces the completeness of recovery and promotes the accumulation of metabolic products at the cellular level, while infrared rays can stimulate synthetic processes and blood circulation in the skin.
Most dermatology and cosmetic articles start with the same phrase: “the skin is the largest organ of the human body.” Not so long ago, researchers refined the measurement by calculating skin area with its surface relief, and obtained an average of about 30 square metres for an adult – an impressive figure. The skin is an extraordinary organ that not only protects us from environmental aggression, but also to some extent controls our lives. Many hormones are activated or transformed in the skin, and skin cells can independently synthesise hormones and hormone‑like substances.
The skin is closely linked to the nervous system; it is no exaggeration to say that it is part of the nervous system, not only transmitting signals from the outside world but also influencing how the body processes and responds to them. The skin is also a vast immune organ that learns continuously from birth to the last day of life. Finally, the skin is home to our microbiome – millions and billions of microorganisms living on its surface and in the folds of its complex landscape. Recent studies have demonstrated a close interaction between the gut microbiome and the skin microbiome, often referred to as an “Gut-Skin axis”, emphasising the two‑way communication that affects the functioning of both organs.
This axis extends further, influencing brain activity and possibly affecting our thinking and behaviour. The skin’s influence is therefore not confined to its surface, however large that surface may be. The skin interacts with, influences and perhaps partially controls many processes in our body and, in a surprisingly global sense, helps determine how we live. It is reasonable to assume that by influencing the condition of the skin, we can affect the whole body – for better or worse.
So why not ask how biohacking tools can help us do exactly that? So, how can we “hack” the skin?
Men often perceive signs of fatigue such as dark circles, under-eye bags, and puffiness around the eyelids as negative indicators of aging. Additionally, the sensation of heaviness in the face can result from a loss of jawline definition, the appearance of a double chin, and excess skin or fat in the lower third of the face.
Given these concerns, it is not surprising that skincare products designed to "lighten" and restore facial shape and volume are consistently popular among men in clinics and beauty salons. Eye care products with anti-puffiness claims and those targeting dark circles are only second in popularity compared to after-shave products.
Male clients are more likely to return for programs that involve sculpting or slimming treatments, focusing on reducing puffiness and redefining the jawline, rather than cleansers, moisturizers, rinses, as well as body, hair, and scalp wash products. Among aesthetic methods, techniques that promote lymphatic drainage, such as microcurrent therapy, are particularly popular, as are treatments aimed at refreshing the overall appearance of the face.
In cosmetology these ingredients are called skin‑identical – substances that are naturally present in healthy skin and influence how it functions. With age, the amount of certain substances can change, altering biochemical reactions and cell interactions and contributing to age‑related changes. The idea behind bioidentical ingredients is simple: you apply a product containing a substance already present in the skin. Because the substance is identical to its own, the skin recognises it as “native”, accepts it and uses it when needed, and such ingredients almost never trigger allergic reactions.
Many body processes are regulated by feedback: when a substance is low, the body receives a signal to increase synthesis; when it is high, synthesis is switched off or the substance begins to be actively broken down. This principle, for example, helps regulate the amount and quality of mucopolysaccharides in the dermis, including hyaluronic acid. A natural concern arises: if we regularly supply bioidentical ingredients from outside, could this suppress internal synthesis so much that cells simply “decide” there is no need to produce them anymore?
Fortunately, topical use makes this scenario unlikely because penetration into the skin is minimal. The amounts that reach deeper layers are not enough to fully compensate for deficiency; instead they mostly act as signalling molecules, nudging the skin to activate its own processes. We still do not fully understand all the dynamics, but long‑term observations generally do not show deterioration with prolonged use of most bioidentical ingredients.
Bioidentical ingredients are widely used in corneotherapy to restore the barrier function. One example is squalane – a lipid similar to squalene, a natural component of sebum, which accounts for around 12% of healthy skin’s surface lipids. In acne, squalane levels increase, changing sebum viscosity and properties; in that case, products containing squalane can worsen the condition. In dry skin, however, squalane levels in the hydrolipidic film fall, and topical squalane can have a therapeutic effect; formulas containing around 12% squalane are especially well tolerated.
Ceramides are another key group of bioidentical lipids. They belong to the granular lipids stored in keratinocyte granules and, during epidermal differentiation, are released and move into the stratum corneum, where they mix with sebum lipids to form the skin’s protective lipid mantle. Atopic dermatitis and many cases of age‑related sensitive skin involve ceramide deficiency. Using ceramides in skincare can reduce sensitivity and restore barrier function even when there are hereditary tendencies.
The skin’s hydrolipidic mantle also contains a complex of substances known as the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), which includes more than a hundred components, among them lactic acid (up to about 8%). At low concentrations lactic acid is used to hydrate the skin by restoring NMF composition. Urea at up to 5% in facial formulas has a similar effect. Another interesting “bioidentical” ingredient is the seawater mineral complex: because the ionic composition of seawater is close to human blood, these complexes can support barrier restoration. Certain minerals, such as magnesium and copper salts, are also perceived as related: magnesium sulfate has a soothing effect, while copper salts support regeneration by participating in enzyme reactions.
Closely related to bioidentity is the concept of compensating deficiencies, where we use not an identical molecule but a related compound that skin structures can convert into what they need. This logic underlies the use of many vitamin derivatives. Vitamin C is a very clear example.
Ascorbic acid has long been used in skincare – as part of acid complexes for renewal and as a powerful antioxidant. Its antioxidant properties are well studied and undisputed. The difficulty is its instability: ascorbic acid is easily destroyed by heat, light and air. Today cosmetic chemists use more than a dozen vitamin C derivatives, each with slightly different properties. Products with vitamin C are very popular, yet both professionals and clients notice that the effect can vary dramatically: some people see excellent results, others almost none.
A recent explanation links this to systemic vitamin C levels. It appears that ascorbic acid and its derivatives in the skin correlate with blood vitamin C levels; once physiological saturation is reached, skin cells stop interacting with topically applied vitamin C. If there is no vitamin C deficiency, topical vitamin C will be less effective or even ineffective. With this in mind, vitamin C skincare is best recommended for people more likely to have a deficiency – for example, smokers – or in periods of increased consumption, such as after UV damage or skin injury, including laser resurfacing.
The same deficiency‑compensation idea underlies the diffuse intradermal injection of hyaluronic acid. If we assume that structural skin changes are largely driven by age‑related hyaluronic acid deficiency in the dermis, this approach seems logical. But true age‑related hyaluronic acid deficiency in healthy individuals appears relatively late and is likely linked not only to reduced synthesis but also to altered degradation, which itself may be a protective mechanism against inflammatory and neoplastic processes, including oedema, chronic inflammation and metastasis. However, hyaluronic acid helps retain moisture on the skin’s surface when used in its native form, and moisturises the deeper skin layers when used in a low‑molecular‑weight form.
Another biohacking strategy is to restore the skin’s reserve capacity, which inevitably declines with age. Regeneration is the most tempting target: we all remember how quickly childhood scrapes healed and how much slower healing becomes over time. Age‑related changes in regeneration are still not fully explained, but we know that energy metabolism, oxygen supply, synthesis of structural molecules and inflammation control play major roles.
While we cannot yet fully restore youthful regenerative efficiency, we can influence it. Ingredients such as coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), niacinamide, strong antioxidants like resveratrol, and low‑dose anti‑inflammatories including acetylsalicylic acid can help optimise healing and regeneration. This is not instantaneous; it requires consistent use over time. Lifestyle also matters greatly: lack of sleep and poor sleep quality significantly undermine the skin’s regenerative abilities.
Chronobiology has become a genuine trend, both in biohacking and in skincare. Many biohacking studies focus on optimising sleep–wake cycles to improve overall function. It turns out that not only sleep duration matters, but also how easily you fall asleep and wake, sleep depth, phase patterns and more. Sleep disorders and chronic sleep debt strongly affect the skin, impairing regeneration, structural protein and mucopolysaccharide synthesis and the performance of skin cells involved in endocrine, immune and neurocutaneous functions.
Sleep is one of the most individual processes, and we are only beginning to understand its laws. Yet our understanding of skin–sleep relationships is already deeper than it was a decade ago. While we used to simply say “every woman needs a richer night cream”, it is becoming clear that we can build more effective routines based on each person’s sleep profile.
Take “larks” and “owls”. Larks, who wake early and feel alert almost instantly, owe much of this to cortisol – specifically to how quickly it is produced and released in the morning. Owls experience a slower, more extended cortisol rise that can take hours. Since cortisol has a strong influence on the skin, we can tailor recommendations for optimal timing of aesthetic procedures and topical products. Interventions that improve sleep itself can become an indirect but powerful way to improve skin, especially during recovery after intensive treatments. “Hacker” skincare lines are already appearing, designed to compensate for or smooth inherited or acquired sleep problems.
We all learned at school that mitochondria are the cell’s “power stations”. In skin, almost everything – from renewal and healing to pigmentation and wrinkle formation – depends on mitochondrial function. Give cells more energy and fibroblasts will synthesise more collagen and hyaluronic acid, while immune cells will respond more effectively to threats. This is a slight simplification, but the general principle holds.
Research in this area is growing rapidly. A whole group of conditions known as mitochondrial diseases has been identified; thanks to improved testing and new markers, they are now recognised earlier. Experimental therapies offer hope to many children with severe hereditary mitochondrial disorders. For skin, the discovery that certain substances can positively influence mitochondrial function has opened the door to new cosmetic ingredients. Properly formulated, these substances may help create products that truly rejuvenate cells: not just “reducing wrinkles” on the surface, but acting on key mechanisms of wrinkle formation to slow or significantly delay their appearance in a natural and safe way.
Discovering epigenetic mechanisms involved in aging and skin quality has created new opportunities to use substances and techniques that enhance the expression of “positive” genes and suppress “negative” ones. When researchers began to study how cosmetic ingredients affect gene expression in skin cells, they discovered that many long‑used substances have beneficial epigenetic effects. Molecular biologists have also identified and synthesised several molecules whose primary action is epigenetic and which may genuinely slow skin aging.[1]
Epigenetics explores how the environment influences an organism’s phenotype without changing its genotype – in other words, how we adapt to surroundings while our DNA sequence remains stable. A good example of a broadly positive epigenetic shift is the acceleration phenomenon: over recent decades average height has increased worldwide. Families in which people were short for generations now see tall children growing into tall adults. DNA from “short” ancestors remains basically the same, but bones and muscles develop differently thanks to more energy‑dense food, better vitamin and mineral intake, fewer severe infections, reduced “childhood stress” and other factors. Previously “sleeping” tall‑stature genes “wake up” under favourable conditions and change the activity of many systems, from endocrine to skeletal and circulatory.
Similar patterns can affect disease development – or reduce risk – even when several generations have been affected by the same conditions. A healthy diet, normal body weight and regular physical activity, for instance, can reduce risks of diabetes, hypertension and cardiovascular disease even with an unfavourable family history. Put simply, epigenetics shows that heredity is not a sentence.
Epigenetic influences are extremely diverse. Not only healthy nutrition and sport but also psychological comfort, social fulfilment, early diagnosis and treatment, financial security, a favourable environment and even intellectual activity can strengthen expression of genes supporting overall and skin health. Some familiar cosmetic ingredients have revealed unexpected epigenetic activity. Glycerin, used for decades as a humectant, has been shown to significantly increase expression of genes responsible for aquaporin nanoproteins, which form microscopic water channels from surface to deeper skin layers. Thus glycerin contributes not only to superficial hydration but also to deeper moisture distribution.
Hyaluronic acid has a similar epigenetic profile; it can enhance expression of genes that protect against free radicals and help regulate inflammation. Coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and its derivatives, and vitamin E are other well‑known epigenetically active substances. Two ingredients, niacinamide and resveratrol, stand out for their ability to increase expression of genes encoding sirtuins – often called “youth proteins” because they help repair damaged DNA and prolong cell life, thus genuinely slowing the aging process.
Thanks to epigenetic discoveries, cosmetology is entering a new era. We now understand that we can influence not just how the skin looks today, but also how it might look tomorrow and in years to come. Epigenetically active ingredients can help control pigment synthesis and prevent age spots, “awaken” genes responsible for structural components in deeper layers to prevent wrinkles, and activate genes that maintain the protective mantle of the skin. It is no exaggeration to say that epigenetics offers keys to many body processes – and in skincare, that means a new opportunity to keep the skin healthy and youthful for longer.
We could speak about biohacking endlessly, and the topic will certainly remain in the spotlight for many years. The central idea is that by correcting and “tweaking” individual characteristics of the body, we can help prevent age‑related changes and disease. Aesthetic medicine and cosmetology offer a particularly wide field for such an approach. The trend towards personalisation – choosing methods and products not just for a diagnosis but for a specific person – is now developing rapidly.
Acne therapy is a good example. Dermatology guidelines list several recommended drugs, but they rarely explain how to choose the right option for an individual. At the same time, more than five hardware techniques and many cosmetic products and procedures have proven effective against acne. Each acne case is individual, shaped by hormonal status and its changes, skin cell responses to hormones, immune reactivity, psychological factors, diet and more.
When does acne therapy become acne biohacking? When treatment strategy and tactics are personalised as much as possible. A prescription for isotretinoin after a ten‑minute consultation is certainly not biohacking. But thoughtfully chosen topical therapy, lifestyle and nutrition recommendations, tailored skincare, appropriate tests to clarify individual characteristics, a clear maintenance plan and, most importantly, detailed discussions with the patient about their specific situation and the reasons behind each choice – this already fits the true meaning of biohacking.
The more skin practitioners and aesthetic medicine doctors become “biohackers” in this sense, the better patients will feel and the better their skin will look. Perhaps then the era of standardised approaches – including standardised beauty ideals, where everyone is invited to erase all wrinkles, acquire the same plump lips and use the same “rejuvenating” cream – will finally come to an end.
As Dr Tiina Meder is known as one of the pioneers of skin biohacking (the first biohacking solution was launched in 2018!), many of Meder products are based on biohacking principles.
Try Meder biohacking solutions:
Circa-Night biohacking restoring night cream: doesn’t help you sleep better but definitely helps you look better after sleepless nights! Called by many fans “sleep in the bottle” this lightweight cream mimics some effects of deep sleep in your skin supporting essential restoring and healing processes during a night time. Just apply it before midnight even if you are not planning to go to bed and enjoy a fresh look in the morning.
Red-Apax active serum and mask: re-educate your reactive skin to stay calm during the day. Face redness may be inconvenient socially in many situations - no one wants to become vividly red while speaking in public or drinking a small glass of wine at a party. If you experience this type of situational redness, use a Red-Apax mask before a party or speaking event for better control of your skin. If you are experiencing chronic redness, we recommend using Red-Apax active serum for at least 5-10 weeks to restore a calm skin appearance. The secret? Mushroom extract from Norway which is able to bind redness receptors in skin cells.
Hydra-Fill active serum: stop annoying skin flaking in the first days of use. If your skin is dry or simply easily flaking responding to stress or change of weather, you should try Hydra-Fill active serum. This silky moisturising gel rich in prebiotics and probiotics suppresses a growth of specific miroorganism (Malassezia funghi) activating a shedding of dead cells from the skin surface. Once Malassezia is suppressed, your skin will be smooth and soft again. Use for 5-10 weeks for better results.