Exfoliation in Your Skin Care: Types, Methods, Precautions and the Meder Approach

Written by: Dr Tiina Meder

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Time to read 6 min

Exfoliation in skin care — things you need to know. What types of exfoliation are available today and all their pros and cons. The Meder approach: achieving smooth skin and lovely complexion without compromising your skin health.

Dr Tiina Meder

The Author: Dr Tiina Meder

Founder and CEO of Meder, renowned dermatologist, skin care & cosmetic safety expert, published author of 2 books on skin care and cosmetic ingredients.

What Types Of Exfoliation Are Used In Skincare?

Exfoliation is a cornerstone of skin care, helping to remove dead skin cells, smooth texture, and promote renewal. Today, exfoliating products are classified into five main types based on their mechanics of action: mechanical, chemical, enzymatic, biological, and combined (a mix of two or more methods). 


Each type has its own benefits and limitations, making it important to choose the right one for your skin type and concerns. 

  • Mechanical based on the principle of mechanical abrasion. 
  • Chemical based on chemical disruption of skin structure, mostly in superficial layers. 
  • Enzymatic based on use of enzymes destroying some elements in skin barrier.
  • Biological using bacteria and fungi cultures to exfoliate skin. 
  • Combined where mechanical ingredients are used in combination with chemical, enzymatic or biological ingredients.

Mechanical Exfoliation: Pros and Cons

Mechanical exfoliation

There are multiple products used for mechanical exfoliation, such as scrubs based on sugar, salt, rice, stones, pearls, opals, micronised seeds and nuts etc.


You can also find exfoliating products called gommage peels, basically gentler scrub versions and peeling gels, popular in Korean skincare (K-beauty). Peeling gels are gellified formulas which should be applied to the skin, allowed to dry and then removed by hand massage. 


Traditionally used exfoliating cloths, gloves and sponges (konjac, microfibre, loofa, etc) are classified as mechanical exfoliators as well.


Skin therapists use technology for mechanical exfoliation, for example dermabrasion with sand, water or saline solutions, mechanical brushing (the best known home version of this treatment is clarisonic brush), ultrasonic peel or scrubber and dermaplanning — an invasive procedure with a high risk of skin infections and scarring.

Pros

Mechanical exfoliation is easy to perform and most of the time affordable

Mechanical exfoliation provides immediate visible improvement and can be relatively versatile depending on the method and intensity.

Cons

Mechanical exfoliation can be aggressive and traumatising for skin, especially for sensitive skin. 

Mechanical exfoliation is not suitable for the whole skin area, it can cause inflammation, spread infection, damage skin microbiome and easily lead to over-exfoliation

Chemical Exfoliation: Pros and Cons

Chemical exfoliants use acids or active compounds to break down bonds between dead skin cells. Popular types include:


  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Glycolic, lactic, pyruvic, azelaic, and kojic acids — best for dry or aging skin and uneven tone.
  • Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA): Salicylic acid — fat-soluble and ideal for oily skin to unclog pores and reduce comedones.
  • Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs): Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid — gentler options for dry or sensitive skin.
  • Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives): Retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid (prescription-only in EUand some other countries). Proven effective for sun damage and solar elastosis but can increase sensitivity.
  • Historically, phenol was one of the first chemical exfoliants used in the early 20th century for deep exfoliation with dramatic results but is now largely avoided due to serious health risks like cardiac arrest and irreversible skin damage.

    Trend Warning: alkaline solutions with a pH ≥8.0 (e.g., sodium bicarbonate) have gained popularity on social media but are highly disruptive to the microbiome and skin barrier — definitely not recommended by dermatologists.

Chemical exfoliation

Pros

Chemical exfoliation is highly effective for a variety of concerns (e.g. pigmentation, wrinkles, acne).


Chemical exfoliation can be tailored for gentle or deep exfoliation depending on the formulation. 

Cons

Chemical exfoliation can cause sensitivity, dehydration or hyperpigmentation if overused.

Chemical exfoliation changes skin pH balance, potentially disrupting the microbiome and impairing the barrier function.

Chemical exfoliation involves high risk of over-exfoliation even with use of low-concentration acid cleansers or serums.

Enzymatic Exfoliation: Pros and Cons

Natural enzymatic exfoliation

Enzymatic exfoliants use natural enzymes to break down proteins in dead skin cells without harsh abrasion.


  • Plant-Based Enzymes: Papaya (papain), pineapple (bromelain), and figs (ficin) are commonly used in skincare to gently smooth texture by hydrolyzing protein bonds in the stratum corneum. 

Pros

Enzymatic exfoliation is generally safe and gentle for most skin types.

Enzymatic exfoliation is effective at smoothing texture without irritation.

Cons

Enzymatic exfoliation has limited effectiveness for oily or acne-prone skin as it only targets proteins — not sebum or clogged pores.

Biological Exfoliation: The New Frontier

Biological exfoliation uses probiotic bacterial or fungal cultures to gently resurface the skin while supporting its natural renewal processes.


  • Bacterial Enzymes & Probiotics: New-generation ingredients like Keratoline combine proteolytic activity (breaking down proteins) with lipolytic (breaking down sebum) and carbohydrolytic (removing polysaccharides) actions. These advanced formulas can clean pores, rebalance the microbiome, and restore healthy exfoliation cycles without irritation.
Biological exfoliation

Pros

Biological exfoliation is suitable for all skin types — including sensitive, acne-prone, or rosacea-prone skin.

Biological exfoliation helps maintain healthy microbiome while promoting regular renewal cycles.

Biological exfoliation poses reduced risk of over-exfoliation or sensitization compared to harsher methods.

Combined Exfoliation

Combined exfoliation

This category blends mechanical methods with chemical or enzymatic ingredients for a multi-action approach — for example, scrubs containing AHAs or peeling gels enriched with enzymes.

Final Thoughts on Choosing Exfoliation

Each type of exfoliation has its strengths and weaknesses. Mechanical methods offer instant gratification but can be harsh if overused; chemical exfoliants are versatile but may disrupt your microbiome; enzymatic options are gentle but limited in scope; while biological exfoliants represent a promising balance between effectiveness and safety.


The key is moderation — over-exfoliating can lead to irritation, sensitivity, and long-term damage to your barrier function. Choose an exfoliant that suits your skin type and concerns while respecting your skin’s natural renewal process!

Meder Approach to Skin Renewal: From Clinic to Home

Exfoliation is a vital step in any facial treatment, as it enhances skin permeability and effectively stimulates renewal. 


At Meder we address this need with our Enzy-Peel Mask, a cornerstone of all six Meder Biofacials designed for various skin concerns. This innovative exfoliator combines biological peeling with microbiome-friendly care, ensuring safe and effective results for all skin types. 

exfoliating mask meder

Key Features of Enzy-Peel Mask

Probiotic Complex Keratoline™: A blend of keratolytic, proteolytic, carbohydralytic, and lipolytic enzymes derived from bacteria and yeast cultures. These enzymes gently dissolve bonds between dead skin cells, cleanse pores, eliminate excess sebum, and smooth the skin’s surface.

Micronized Opal Particles: Act as gentle mechanical exfoliators, complementing the enzymatic action for a dual exfoliation effect.

Shea Butter Base: Organic shea butter nourishes and restores the skin barrier post-exfoliation, optimizing hydration and renewal.

Professional Versatility

Enzy-Peel is highly versatile in professional settings:


  • It can be combined with ultrasound peeling for deep exfoliation.
  • It works as a gentle enzymatic mask for sensitive or melanin-rich skin.

Unlike traditional exfoliators that alter the skin’s pH, Enzy-Peel preserves the natural pH balance, making it safe for all skin types, including sensitive and aging skin.

Home Care Solution

The home version of Enzy-Peel is one of our bestsellers, recommended for weekly use. This gentle yet powerful biological exfoliator deeply cleanses the skin while maintaining its microbiome health. 

For optimal results:


1. Apply Enzy-Peel to clean, slightly damp skin — preferably after a warm shower when your bathroom is steamy.

2. Spread evenly over your face and neck and leave on for 5–10 minutes to let the enzymes work their magic.

3. For enhanced exfoliation, gently massage your skin with moistened fingers in circular motions (optional for sensitive skin).


The result? Skin that feels smooth, soft, and radiant after every use.

Daily Renewal for Mature Skin

For mature or dry skin needing regular renewal support, we recommend our Energy-Net Cleansing Mask as a daily solution. With a lower concentration of Keratoline™, it gently activates renewal without over-exfoliating. Enriched with niacinamide, Energy-Net promotes healthy oxygenation, strengthens the skin barrier, and protects the microbiome — all while ensuring optimal hydration.


To use Energy-Net: Apply to clean skin, leave on for a few minutes, then rinse with lukewarm water.


Meder’s approach to exfoliation combines science-backed innovation with microbiome-friendly care to deliver professional-grade results both in clinics and at home.

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