Exfoliation 101: All You Need To Know If You Care About Your Skin Health

Natural skin exfoliation, also called desquamation, is an innate process of shedding dead skin cells from the superficial skin layer called Stratum Corneum. This natural process ensures that old, damaged or contaminated cells are constantly being removed while making way for new, healthy cells to replace them. The same process happens in all organs of the human body but with a different speed and skin is one of the body's faster renewing organs, although not the fastest. The cells of our intestines, for example, or of female cervix renew every few days, skin epidermis renewal takes 10-30 days or longer in older people. Other organs renew slower, e.g. liver cells renew every 6-12 months and fat cells' renewal takes about 8 years. The famous saying “All cells of the human body renew in 7 years” is a complete myth. In fact, some cells don’t renew at all and stay stable throughout a lifetime — such as female gonad oocytes, central nervous system cells and ocular lens cells.

Natural skin exfoliation and renewal is an extremely important process maintaining healthy skin environmental protection and preventing mutations. As many of the processes in our body, it slows down with age. An average 28 days epidermis renewal is characteristic for healthy adults. In a 45+ person skin renewal can take 40–50 days and keeps slowing down eventually reaching 70–80 days in the elderly. 

Some skin diseases, such as psoriasis, affect skin differently, accelerating skin renewal up to a 5-7-day cycle. Slower skin renewal cycle leads to skin dryness, hyperkeratosis and the impairment of skin barrier. Piling dead cells reduce skin youthful glow creating rough texture with visually prominent wrinkles and folds alongside dark spots and uneven skin tone. Speeded skin renewal leads to skin irritation and increased sensitivity, redness and chronic inflammation as well as an impaired skin barrier and higher risk of skin infections. Healthy skin renewal is a well balanced process, maintaining a proper cellular turnover and maturation process. During cellular maturation skin cells accumulate essential substances such as granular lipids and proteins later used to build skin protective and water holding structures. Too fast or too slow skin renewal are both leading to the loss of skin functions, sense of comfort and healthy youthful appearance.

Skin renewal process is regulated by many mechanisms including internal cells clock defining cells lifetime, circadian regulation, Calcium ions metabolism and hormonal stimuli. Key activators of natural skin renewal are Retinoic acid and keratolytic enzymes. Retinoic acid activates a process of differentiation or “birth” of skin cells and enzymes are responsible for shedding of dead cells from the skin surface.

Retinoic Acid: The Surprising Role It Plays in Your Body

Retinoic acid is often associated with “rejuvenating skincare,” a reputation largely built by beauty editors and the skincare industry. However, you might be surprised to learn that even if you don’t use any skincare products, retinoic acid is naturally present in your body — not just in your skin, but also in vital organs like your brain, liver, and intestines.

This powerful compound is synthesized in the body through a two-step oxidation process from vitamin A (retinol), which we obtain through our diet. Retinoic acid plays a crucial role as one of the most essential substances promoting and regulating cell differentiation and renewal across various organs, including skin, obviously. Retinoic acid synthesis slows down with age contributing to slower skin renewal and loss of skin’s elasticity.

Among other things, vitamin A is a critical regulator of foetal development. However, excessive intake during pregnancy — whether through supplements, medications, or skincare products containing retinol — can lead to serious complications such as birth defects or stillbirths.

For this reason, any use of retinol-containing skincare products is strictly contraindicated during pregnancy.

The widespread use of retinol-based skincare has raised concerns about its contribution to vitamin A hypervitaminosis. 

In response to these risks, European authorities have introduced new regulations that will take effect on November 1st, 2025:

• Skincare products containing retinol, retinyl acetate or retinyl palmitate will be restricted to lower concentrations.
• All such products must carry a label stating: “Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use.”

When to Seek Medical Advice

If you’re a regular user of retinol-based skincare and experience symptoms such as headaches, nausea, abdominal pain, drowsiness, unexplained skin rashes, heightened skin sensitivity, or irritation, it’s important to consult a medical professional. These could be signs of vitamin A hypervitaminosis and may require evaluation and adjustment of your vitamin A intake. 

Unless you’re fortunate enough to live in pristine environments like pastoral New Zealand, Australia, or Iceland, your skin is likely under constant assault from air pollution. Microparticles and toxins in polluted air trigger oxidative stress, damaging your skin and activating its natural defense mechanism: the overproduction of keratin. While keratin is essential for maintaining the "brick-and-mortar" structure of the skin barrier, excessive production thickens the skin, making it rough and uneven. Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation further exacerbates this process, disrupting the skin’s natural exfoliation cycle and accelerating damage.

But it’s not just external factors — internal processes play a significant role too. Your skin naturally renews itself at night, peaking around midnight. However, if you miss this crucial renewal window due to poor sleep or late nights (sorry, Cinderella!), your skin’s natural exfoliation slows down. A sedentary lifestyle and a diet high in processed foods can also hinder skin renewal by causing vitamin deficiencies and inflammation. And as with many biological processes, age is another factor: while a healthy adult in their 20s or 30s typically experiences a 28-day skin renewal cycle, this slows to 42 days by the age of 50 and up to 80–90 days in individuals over 75.

Natural exfoliation alone cannot keep up with these challenges. Pollution-induced oxidative stress damages lipids, proteins, and DNA in the skin, leading to premature aging, pigmentation issues, and inflammatory conditions like eczema and acne. UV radiation compounds this damage by degrading collagen and elastin while impairing the skin’s ability to shed dead cells effectively. Without intervention, these factors disrupt the balance of your skin barrier and leave it vulnerable to further harm.

To maintain healthy, radiant skin in today’s environment, relying solely on natural exfoliation is insufficient. Incorporating gentle yet effective exfoliation methods into your skincare routine can help remove built-up keratin and dead cells while supporting your skin’s renewal process. By addressing both external aggressors like pollution and internal factors such as aging or lifestyle habits, you can restore balance to your skin and protect it from further damage.

Start with your lifestyle! Small, consistent changes can make a big difference in supporting your skin’s natural renewal process. 

Eating the right foods can do wonders for your skin, especially those rich in vitamin A or its precursor, beta-carotene. Beta-carotene helps your body maintain healthy levels of retinoic acid, a key compound that regulates natural skin renewal, boosts collagen production, and keeps your skin smooth and firm. Retinoic acid doesn’t just benefit your skin — it interacts with cells in all your body’s organs and tissues, promoting overall health while enhancing your skin’s appearance.

A diet rich in beta-carotene and vitamin A can help your body produce enough retinoic acid naturally, reducing the need for retinol-based skincare products. While effective, topical retinol can sometimes make your skin more sensitive to UV damage, pollution, and irritation. By eating a balanced diet, you can support your skin from within without risking discomfort or sensitivity.

Incorporating these nutrient-rich foods into your diet will not only support your skin’s natural renewal process but also contribute to a radiant, healthy complexion — no harsh skincare needed!

Exfoliation is essential for maintaining smooth, radiant skin, but when done excessively, it can do more harm than good. Overly zealous exfoliation strips away the skin’s natural protective barrier, leaving it vulnerable to environmental damage, dehydration, and irritation. Instead of the healthy glow you’re aiming for, over-exfoliated skin often becomes red, sensitive, and prone to breakouts or flakiness.

The problem lies in disrupting the balance. Your skin needs time to renew naturally, and overdoing exfoliation — whether through scrubs, acids, or enzymes — can interfere with this process. It forces your skin into a constant state of repair, depleting its resources and weakening its resilience. It can lead to development of dark spots and superficial wrinkles due to skin dehydration and higher sensitivity to ultraviolet damage.

Signs of over-exfoliation include tightness, stinging, redness, or a shiny appearance that’s more irritation than glow. If this sounds familiar, it’s time to take a step back. Give your skin a break by focusing on hydration and barrier-repairing products until it recovers. Remember: exfoliation is about balance — not extremes. Gentle, consistent care will always win over aggressive treatments!