Strange History of Jojoba Oil
The story of jojoba (also pronounced 'hohoba' and 'yoyoba') is full of misconceptions and confusion. First of all, its scientific name—Simmondsia chinensis—is not relevant.
The famous 18th-century botanist named Johann Friedrich Link accidentally mixed the jojoba seeds that he'd collected in Mexico with some seeds from China and, when categorizing the plants, named the bush Simmondsia chinensis.
However, the jojoba plant had nothing to do with China—the bush was native to Mexican, South, and North American deserts, and it wasn't until the 1970s that it was cultivated elsewhere in the world.
The extract of jojoba seeds is frequently called jojoba nut oil, but it is not, in fact, an oil. It is actually a pure liquid, a substance very rarely found in nature.
The chemical composition difference between other oils and the one from the jojoba plant may not seem very substantial, but it accounts for their very different qualities.
A molecule of vegetable oil contains fatty acids and numerous alcohol groups that oxidize easily, changing the oil's structure and turning it rancid. As for the ether molecule of jojoba oil, it is not oxidizing and never goes rancid, being a powerful antioxidant in itself.
Jojoba oil was found in the Egyptian pyramids in tightly sealed jars—amazingly enough, it hasn't changed its properties in thousands of years!
What Makes Jojoba Oil Unique?
The composition of organic jojoba oil determines its cosmetic properties and health benefits. Its complexion is quite similar to that of the waxy ethers (or liquid wax) synthesized by the sebaceous glands of young and healthy skin.
This is why the natural oil has a nourishing and softening effect, quickly restoring the skin's natural protective properties.
Jojoba oil is 98% wax, so scientists consider it to be a jojoba liquid wax rather than an oil. Jojoba oil is a mixture of jojoba wax, free fatty acids, alcohols, molecules called sterols (such as cholesterol), as well as antioxidants and fat-soluble vitamins.
Organic jojoba oil contains a lot of vitamin E, which has antioxidant properties, enhances the skin's ability to regenerate, and helps retain moisture on its surface. But jojoba is rich in other antioxidants and vitamins as well, and among them is quercetin.
The ether molecule is constructed of fatty acids, primarily docosahexaenoic, gadoleic, erucic, and oleic fatty acids — all of them, but the latter is practically never found in other vegetable oils or extracts.
Another substance found in organic jojoba oil is an unusual protein that is very similar in composition to the collagen of the human skin. It is responsible for the jojoba oil's ability to restore the skin's resilience, elasticity, and overall softness.
How to Store Jojoba Oil
A jojoba ether molecule can polymerize when exposed to the sun rays — ultraviolet, even in small doses, makes it connect into one long polymeric chain, changing the ether's structure from liquid to viscous.
This is why it is very important to keep jojoba oil in opaque or dark jars made of glass, plastic, or metal; in transparent jars, it turns into a thick wax-like polymer in just a few hours.
One of jojoba oil's peculiarities is its ability to change structure: in a warm environment, it looks like a thick golden liquid; when cooled down, it turns into a wax-like paste, and if you heat it up, it'll become liquid again without losing its useful properties.
Jojoba is one of the essential oils that are almost scentless, and since it can retain the aroma and properties of ether oils dissolved in it, it is often used as a base oil in aromatherapy.
How Jojoba Oil Helped Save Whales from Extinction
Jojoba oil's composition is very similar to that of spermaceti — the liquid ether found in the head cavities of sperm whales. For a while, it had been mistakenly believed to be the whale's semen, hence the name, and was widely used.
In the XVIII century, people used it to make candles and later lubricants and cosmetic creams. In the XX century, they started extracting cetyl alcohol from it. Today, hunting sperm whales is prohibited, and spermaceti is successfully substituted by jojoba oil — thanks to its almost identical composition.
However, the healing properties of jojoba were scientifically confirmed only in the 1970s. Before that, jojoba oil was used in America during the war as an alternative lubricating oil for military hardware and sometimes for making paints.
But when chemical analysis confirmed that jojoba oil was identical to precious spermaceti, the former drew the attention of both hardware manufacturers and environmentalists. In the 1970s, several large conferences were held in California on jojoba oil — how to grow the bush and where to plant it (jojoba grows best in the Sonora desert climate and in Baja California).
There even was a Jojoba Witness society, headed by Dr. Thomas Miwa, with 12 members who called themselves 'pilgrims' and, along with the conferences' participants, strived to end the extermination of whales and substitute spermaceti for jojoba completely — in hardware manufacture, pharmacology and cosmetics.
Back in the day their ideas were considered unrealistic, but today we can establish it as a fact that they've won.
Natural Jojoba Oil Products in Traditional Medicine
In the whaling days, the whalers noticed that cuts and burns on their hands healed almost instantly after they handled spermaceti.
It appears that Native Americans had made similar observations about jojoba oil: according to Spanish missionaries, jojoba soothes sunburn as well as treats sores, wounds, and other burns.
Jojoba also served as a disinfectant due to its antibacterial properties as well as skin and hair products and one of their magic rituals' paraphernalia. In the XVII–XVIII centuries, the Indigenous people of Mexico and South America did use jojoba oil as their 'liquid gold'—a local currency to trade for food, weapons, and jewelry.
The Indigenous people of America used to eat jojoba oil, but it doesn't really have nutritional value — the ethers practically don't assimilate in the digestion process, and the oil comes out unchanged. This quality makes it possible to use jojoba oil-based solutions to treat women's cracked nipples during breastfeeding.
Jojoba Oil Benefits in Cosmetics
Organic jojoba oil can be used as a separate ingredient, but it is also a valuable substitute for lanolin, mineral oil, and synthetic ethers. It is most often included in cosmetic solutions for dry, dehydrated, and mature skin types.
It can be used in pure form in small quantities as well. For instance, to gain hair benefits, to treat sores, skin fissures, and flakiness on elbows, knees, and feet. Jojoba oil is also a very popular base for lip care solutions, primarily lip balms and lipsticks.
Recently, jojoba oil has been introduced into cosmetics for oily skin. It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, and it doesn't clog the orifice of hair follicles because it doesn't glue together the dead skin cells, therefore not causing comedones.
10 Benefits of Jojoba Oil for Your Skin, Scientifically Explained
- It is moisturizing - liquid golden ether of organic jojoba oil forms a thin water-holding film on the skin surface and prevents water loss, which is perfect for dry skin. The skin's comfort is restored almost immediately! It can also be used as cuticle oil.
- It is antioxidant - it contains an impressive amount of antioxidants, amongst them vitamin E and quercetin. Antioxidants play an important role in skin protection from environmental damage, including the damage from ultraviolet rays, but also prevent premature skin aging, dark spots, and the formation of wrinkles.
- It is anti-inflammatory. The anti-inflammatory effects of jojoba oil have been proven for both acute and chronic skin inflammation. It is one of the best natural emollients for napkin rash treatment. People with different skin conditions, such as psoriasis and eczema, also benefit a lot from using products based on jojoba oil. It is used in pharmacology as a carrier for topical medication in dermatology and can help reduce flare-ups.
- Helps to regulate sebum production. It sounds counterintuitive, but jojoba oil's fatty acids are very similar to fatty acids of sebum produced by healthy young sebum's glands, and they restore healthy sebum production. The most beautiful thing about it is the inclusivity of organic jojoba oil - it helps to reduce oiliness in oily and combination skin as well as stimulate sebum production in dry skin, reducing dryness. The same goes for your scalp when applying the oil directly.
- Boosts collagen synthesis. Organic jojoba oil plant extracts are rich in antioxidants but also contain a rare protein similar to human collagen; it boosts collagen production, helps restore skin elasticity and firmness, and can be valuable when treating acne.
- Soothes irritated or damaged skin. Skin irritation is linked to impaired skin barrier. Jojoba oil is able to repair it efficiently, and it brings immediate relief to the skin. You can apply it if you have allergic reactions.
- Increases regenerative properties of the skin. Research shows that jojoba's ether is able to accelerate a wound closing in the superficial and deep layer of the skin, activating regenerative properties of epidermis and dermis cells. This can be a savior for acne-prone skin.
- Soothes sunburns. Vitamin E is renowned for its ability to minimize skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays. It calms down inflammation and restores a natural skin barrier burned by sun rays.
- Helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and lines. The moisturizing effect and ability to boost collagen synthesis, as well as the antioxidant activity of jojoba's oil, help to restore skin's youthful appearance and smooth its texture visibly.
- Hypoallergenic. As jojoba oil is wax, it cannot irritate the skin and very rarely can cause an allergic reaction in people. It is a great ingredient in products designed for sensitive skin or children.
How to Recognize Jojoba Oil on a Label
Name:
Jojoba, Simmondsia chinensis
A source of:
- Jojoba oil
- INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Oil.
Other names:
Buxus chinensis, Jojobaöl, Simondsiae californiae, Oleum simondsiae californiae, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil, Jojoba Öl, Simmonsia chinensis, Buxus Chinensis Oil, Jojoba Wax, Simmondsia Californica Oil, Huile de graine de jojoba.
Recommended concentration:
- up to 25%. Jojoba oil can also be used in its pure form (for hair care or massage creams), in skin care 1–15%.
- in hair care solutions 5–10%.
Meder Skincare Based on Jojoba Oil
Blepharo-Rich eye cream, designed to tighten and rejuvenate the delicate skin around the eyes, preventing the formation of wrinkles and reducing the appearance of existing lines. Highly commended by The Attracta Beauty Award 2022 in the Best Eye Care category.
